Bosch 1942 14 3 Amp Heat

MERCEDES BENZ ALTERNATORS

Alternators & Regulators Bosch with internal regulators

DESCRIPTION

Alternators made by Bosch are traditionalisti 3-phase, self-rectifying type alternators.

Bosch 75 through 55-amp alternators use3 negative 3 positive and diodes connected to stator windings to rectify current, Bosch 90 and 80-amp alternators use 14 diodes.

All alternators use 3 exciter diodes connected to stator windings, while the engine is running these diodes turn off the alternator indicator light and supply power to the voltage regulator, Bosch regulators are transistorized solid state and integral with alternator.

ALTERNATOR APPLICATION

Model Volts/Amps

(1) Manufacturer’s Part No.

190E 14/70 489 928

190D 14/70 489 897

All Others 14/70 N/A

(1) Bosch alternator portion numbers are preceded by the numbers 0 120 or beginning with an AL lettering a number and ending with an X.

1. You may connect a voltmeter to the alternator “B+” terminal and ground, voltmeter ought to indicate battery voltage, if not check wiring amidst battery and alternator.

2. Turn ignition on and check that alternator indicator light comes on, if light does not come on, check wiring among warning light and alternator, including indicator bulb.

1. Ensure connections at battery, alternator, and starter are clean and tight, make sure alternator engine and body are decently grounded, see to it alternator belt is tight and in good condition.

2. Connect ammeter following manufacturer’s instructions, connect voltmeter leads to battery terminals.

3. Start engine and run at 3000 R.P.M. adjust carbon pile to obtain greatest or most complete or best possible alternator output, do not concede voltage to go underneath 12.6 volts.

4. Alternator output ought to equivalent alternator rated output, minus 16-20 amps, if reading is 16-20 amps under alternator rating, replace regulator and retest, if output is still too low, repair or replace the alternator.

REGULATOR CONTROL VOLTAGE TEST

1. Connect ammeter following manufacturer’s instructions, connect voltmeter leads to battery terminals, run engine at 3000 R.P.M.

2. Run engine until voltage stops rising, voltage must be 13.5-14.5 volts, if reading is incorrect, remove regulator and make sure brushes are longer than 6 m.m..

3. If brushes are okay and regulator fails to keep voltage within specified limits, replace regulator and retest, if voltage is still incorrect, fix or replace alternator.

OVERHAUL

DISASSEMBLY

1. Remove nut, lock washer, and pulley, do not forget position of spacers, Then remove fan assemblage and key, scribe mark on front and rear housings, remove voltage regulator and remove screws, discerned front and rear housings.

2. Disconnect capacitor from terminal; remove nut, insulators, screws and washers.

Remove stator assembly.

3. Unsolder stator from diode assembly; remove bearing wave washer or o ring from rear of housing.

3. Support front housing and conservatively press out rotor, do not grant rotor to fall, remove screws securing bearing retainer, remove retainer front bearing and seal remove rear bearing from slip ring at end of rotor.

TESTING & REPAIR

Diode Assembly

1. Place ohmmeter scale on x100 scale connect ohmmeter leads throughout “B+” terminal and 3 stator terminals one at a time, reverse leads, ohmmeter ought to indicate continuity in one direction only.

2. Reconnect ohmmeter leads all over negative and 3 stator terminals one at a time.

Reverse leads; ohmmeter must indicate continuity in one direction only.

3. Connect ohmmeter leads throughout “D+” terminal and 3 stator terminals one at a time.

Reverse leads, ohmmeter will have to indicate continuity in one direction only, if diodes are found to be defective, replace the diode assembly.

Fig. 3: Diode Assembly Test Diode assemblage for 55 amp alternator is shown, others are similar.

1. Place ohmmeter on lowest scale, connect ohmmeter all over stator leads, resistance amid leads must be 14 15 ohms for 55-amp alternator and .09 10 ohms for 65 through 90 amp alternators, if resistance is incorrect, stator has open or shorted windings and will have to be replaced.

2. Place ohmmeter on X 1000 scale. Connect ohmmeter amidst stator core and stator lead, no continuity will have to exist, if continuity exists, stator is grounded and will have to be replaced.

1. Place ohmmeter on lowest scale, connect ohmmeter all over slip rings, resistance ought to be 3 4-3.75 ohms for 55 amp alternator and 2.8 3.1 ohms for 65 through 90 amp alternators.

2. If resistance is too low, rotor has short circuit and it must be substituted if resistance is infinity no continuity, rotor has open circuit and will have to be replaced.

3. Place ohmmeter on x1000 scale, reconnect ohmmeter amidst either the slip ring and rotor core, no continuity will have to exist, if continuity exists, rotor is grounded and ought to be replaced.

4. Clean slip rings using a very fine sandpaper, rings which are worn or pitted ought to be turned on lathe, minimum ring diameter is 1 1/16″ 26.8 m.m. if slip rings are beyond repair, replace slip rings as outlined in steps 5 and 6.

5. Remove rear bearing from slip ring end of rotor, unsolder wires from slip rings and bend up ends of rotor winding, pull off slip rings, see to it ends of rotor winding are not damaged.

6. Insert the ends of rotor winding into slip ring and press new slip ring onto rotor, slip ring end will have to be 9/64″ 3.5 m.m. from end of the collar, solder rotor winding to slip ring terminals, turn rings on lathe and retest rotor, greatest or most complete or best possible slip ring run out is 0012″.03 m.m..

The Bearings

Always replace bearings, if substitute front bearing is sealed on one side only, open side will have to face rotor, if substitute rear bearing is sealed on one side only, open side must face away from rotor.

Brushes

Ensure brushes are longer than 6 m.m. replace if necessary, unsolder brushes from voltage regulator, solder new brushes, and do not concede solder to run into strands of brush leads.

Brush will have to be free to slide in holder with normal spring tension of 10-14.

REASSEMBLY

1. Install the bearing, retainer, and screws in front housing, press rotor onto housing.

Press bearing on slip ring end of the rotor, solder stator to diode assembly, exercise care when soldering near diodes due to possible heat damage.

2. Install insulators on stator assembly, assemble stator assemblage and rear housing, install wave washer or O ring in rear housing, align the scribe marks and assemble front and rear housings.

3. Install key, fan assembly, and spacers, install the pulley, lock washer and nut, tighten nut to 23-29 ft. 3-4 Nm. Ensure rotor spins freely, and install voltage regulator and capacitor.

Bosch 1942 14 3 Amp Heat

Powerful blower provides a high volume of air necessitated for industrial applications; Convenient base allows stationary use; For continuous duty; Variable temp. 750 deg.F – 1,000 deg.F; Max. air volume 23 CFM; Multiple uses: Strip paint, shrink tubing or packaging, heat liquids, loosen fittings, soften caulking and surface finishes, thaw pipes

The Bosch 1942 heat gun features an air intake regulator that allows variable temperature adjustment. The insulated nozzle provides a cool exterior temperature, while the padded adaptable stand may be positioned for any work angle. The heat gun provides a greatest or most complete or best possible temperature of 750 to 1,000 degrees F and a greatest or most complete or best possible air volume of 23 cubic feet per minute.

Features

• 14.3 amps, 750 to 1,000 degrees F
• Powerful blower provides a high volume of air necessitated for industrial apps
• Air intake regulator adjusts the temperature to the requisites of the occupation
• Cool air setting for cooling tool and for no-heat apps adds skillfulness
• Insulated nozzle protects operator, provides a cool exterior temperature
• Padded adaptable stand allows stationary use with multi-position holder
• Multiple uses: strip paint, shrink tubing or packaging, heat liquids, loosen fittings, soften caulking, surface finishes, or thaw pipes
• Double-insulated, UL-listed, complies to OSHA
• Range of accessaries adapts tool for specific uses in building trades, industrial applications, and laboratory work

Specifications

• Rating: 120 volts AC
• Amps: 14.3 amps
• Temperature settings: 750 to 1,000 degrees F
• Air volume: 23 cubic feet per minute
• Length: 8 inches
• Weight: 3.5 lbs.

Warranty
This Bosch power tool comes with a one-year fixed warranty from the date of purchase.

Bosch 1942 14 3 Amp Heat Picture

Bosch 1942 14 3 Amp Heat Pic

Bosch 1942 14 3 Amp Heat Picture

Bosch 1942 14 3 Amp Heat Photo

Most helpful client reviews

31 of 34 people found the following review helpful.
Does just what it is designed for
By Todd J. Niblo
I genuinely like this heat gun. It is mercantile quality. It will last for years, may be rebuilt ( if necessary ), the base is very commodious ( this does not cool rather as fast as the variable heat range model ), and always comes up to the same temperature. I think if I were to buy another the variable heat range model, just because there are times when this model is too hot for the project at hand, and varying the distance amidst the gun and the work is not enough. That is my only complaint w/ this tool, but it is not the tool’s fault. If you intend to use this gun for the same project and you don’t need to vary the range, this is the heat gun to buy !

10 of 10 persons found the following review helpful.
Quality you’d suppose from Bosch
By johnniemac
I’ve applied this heat gun for a lot of dissimilar projects while working on my old house and I am astonished that it still works as systematically as the day I purchased it. As with all of my tools, I follow the instructions included – Bosch reccomends you need to let it cool down each once and a while – not use it for extended periods on high. In addition, rather of just turning it *off*, you have to turn it to the no-heat setting, open the side vents full, and let it run til the barrell is no longer warm to the touch. Perhaps that’s why my gun has lasted so long? Probably so, because Bosch designed it to be used that way. I likewise agree with the other reviewer that this is the heat gun to buy. Incidently, I own or have owned when it comes to ten Bosch power tools and their accessaries from saws and blades to routers and bits, so perhaps I’m biased. However, I also have always cited that Bosch tools seem to rate high in contractor (FHB) and contruction (JLC) magazine reviews. Oh yes – don’t forget to buy and use a *respirator* (not a dopey dust mask) when using this tool.

5 of 5 persons found the following review helpful.
HEAT GUN
By Annette Ensley
I lately purchased the bosch 1942 heat gun. I am very pleased with my purchase. I like the fact that it doen’t get hot sufficient to burn the wood, Although they all have the potential too. The last gun I had would get very hot. Hot sufficient I would burn the wood.You may in truth tell the divergence in the areas I stripped with the old heat gun and the new one. I would commend this
heat gun to any individual fascinated in purchasing such a product.

See all 15 client reviews…